The party’s finally over for Sevva

It enjoyed a halcyon 16 years as one of Hong Kong’s hottest dining spots, but Sevva shuts this month for the last time. Carolynne Dear caught up with its glamorous founder and owner Bonnae Gokson to find out what’s next.

Rumours of the closure swirled last year and were eventually confirmed during the autumn in a straight-to-the-point statement issued by the restaurant. “Hong Kong icon Sevva to bid adieu after 16 years of verve, boldness of vision and inimitable style,” it read.

Sevva opened in 2008, the brainchild of Hong Kong entrepreneur Bonnae Gokson. Located on the 25th floor of the Landmark building and with a wraparound terrace boasting killer city and harbour views, the restaurant quickly became a favoured cocktail and dining spot, hosting royalty, celebrities and jet-setters.

But all good things have to come to an end, or so the saying goes, and Sevva will close this month when its lease expires. In true Gokson style, the restaurant went out with a bang at a glamorous bash back in January, attended by prominent members of Hong Kong society.

But it took a lot of hard work to get Sevva to where it is today.

“In 2008 Sevva was a dilapidated, low-ceilinged office with very dark, small windows,” Gokson recalls. “I’ve kept the photos.”

The transformation, she admits, was huge. “Working with a seven foot ceiling in a 1960s building it took months to obtain government approvals and work around old architectural codes,” she says. “We managed thanks to my brilliant architect, Calvin Tsao of New York’s Tsao-McKown Architects and Team HC locally.”

When Gokson decided she wanted a living, green, garden wall indoors, she was told it was impossible. Undaunted, she called on florist friends Daniel Ost and Patrick Blanc to help. “Anyway, it’s a long story, but our renowned, lush, beautiful green wall stood the test of time,” she smiles.

She came up with the restaurant’s moniker after a meditation class. ‘Seva’ is a Sanskrit word alluding to selfless service performed with no expectation of reward. “I used to go to a meditation centre, Siddha Yoga on the 26th floor, and had goosebumps when our landlord awarded the venue to me,” says Gokson. “I just added another V to seva and it became Sevva. It also rhymes with ‘savour’, which is why our tagline has always been ‘savour the moment’.”

The food concept, however, was a tougher challenge. “Hong Kong is one of the most vibrant, cosmopolitan cities. I grew up with many different cuisines, from Chinese provincial flavours, to British, American, Russian, French, Italian, Indian… You name it, Hong Kong had it! I wanted this to be reflected in the dishes that we served at Sevva and so, with the smallest kitchen space, we managed a global menu. I was brought up in a large home with grand parties, service in proper uniforms and fine cuisine using the best recipes from chefs, aunties, maids and so on. Sevva was an extension of this.

“For sure Sevva had an amazing mix of guests,” Gokson continues. “There were so many highlights, so many memories. We’ve entertained royalty, tycoons, artists, celebrities, film stars, Nobel prize winners… But we’ve always been discreet.”

All the best parties eventually come to an end, and Sevva was ultimately brought down by its landlord who wanted to tender the space for new concepts.

“So many businesses closed during Covid and the year of social unrest, but Sevva survived it all,” says Gokson. “We even invested in a huge renovation. Rumours began to spread at the beginning of 2023 that Sevva was closing, but as the founder and owner I had heard nothing. I was shocked. We were so proud that despite the harshest of times, we’d overcome everything and business was actually really good again.”

Gokson says she was invited to retender. “Then there was more gossip about this or that food and beverage group securing the Sevva site. But it was the landlord’s decision in the end,” she adds philosophically.

So what’s next for Gokson? 

“Well, let’s call it ‘qui sait?’ and ‘que sera, sera’,” she says diplomatically, carefully not revealing anything. “Hong Kong Living, you’ll be among the first to know…”

Until April 17, a remarkable collection of art, furniture, porcelain, silverware, glassware, vintage wines and more, curated over the years by SEVVA’s founder Bonnae Gokson, will be available either for purchase or by online auction at sevva.oph.hk from now until April17. 

Amongst the iconic artworks being auctioned online are Martin Gremse’s 2015 “White Platinum Mimosa” and photorealist C.J. Hendry’s “Hermes Plate” series “50 foods in 50 days”. A portion of proceeds from the sale will be allocated to long-serving SEVVA employees.

Sevva closes its doors later this month.