The power of food: These Michelin-starred and award-winning chefs are encouraging inclusivity in the industry

From Left: Chef Robin Zavou, Jo Soo Tang, Chef Joanna Yuen and Chef Chris Czerwinski

In a city with more than 15,000 restaurants, it makes sense to harness the power of food to raise awareness for underprivileged youth. 

That’s precisely what philanthropist Jo Soo Tang did at the start of 2023 when she set up rén 人, a social enterprise that supports Hong Kong youth, particularly those with special needs and those from low-income families, in acquiring life skills and gaining work experience to pursue a fulfilling career.

In Chinese, rén 人 means humanity and being kind, both terms that Tang is familiar with throughout her years spent working in Hong Kong’s philanthropic sector and embarking on her solo venture just as the city’s food and drink scene sprang back to life at the end of the pandemic. 

Over the past eight months, Tang has amassed an impressive following of chef advocates who have pledged to join her on her mission to raise awareness for underprivileged youth in the city. 

Her advocates include high-profile chefs such as Executive Chef at Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, Robin Zavou, Executive Chef at Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts, Uwe Opocensky, Chef Olivier Elzer of Clarence, Chef Richard Ekkebus of The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong, Executive Chef at Soho House, Krzysztof (Chris) Czerwinski, Chef Sheldon Fonseca of The Mira Hong Kong, Chef Michael Smith and Chef Wilson Leung of Moxie and award-winning Pastry Chef Joanna Yuen, who recently opened her boutique cake shop Otera. 

rén 人 has also formed partnerships with wellness advocate Delia Leung and Agnes Shea, Private Banker at Citibank who bring a new angle to what the team is able to offer. And it’s not just the city’s youth who are benefitting. rén 人 has recently formed partnerships with Linklaters and Christian Action through which they are now also placing refugees.  

In between shifts, we caught up with Chef Joanna Yuen, Chef Robin Zavou and Chef Chris Czerwinski to learn more about this rapidly expanding social enterprise and how we can get involved. 

What does working with rén 人 involve for you? 

Chef Zavou: We use our skills to help promote the city’s underprivileged youth. That could mean dedicating our time and ingredients to cook at a rén 人 fundraiser, collaborating on a product, or taking a rén 人 student to learn from us in the kitchen.

How has Hong Kong’s dining scene changed?

Chef Zavou: Hong Kong’s dining scene has diversified over the past 7-10 years. It used to be very Cantonese. Now diners can find far more contemporary offerings in the city due to an influx of international chefs and as a result of local chefs returning from overseas with renewed enthusiasm for Cantonese cuisine. For example, Mott 32 and Ho Lee Fook offer a far more contemporary style of Chinese cuisine.

The bar scene has also rapidly expanded, and Hong Kong bars have gained substantial international acclaim. This year, the city was significant in awards such as Asia’s 50 Best Bars and World’s 50 Best Bars. Our very own, The Aubrey came 17th in Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2023.

How do you encourage talent in young chefs? 

Chef Yuen: It’s essential to be apparent from the start. Working in the kitchen is challenging; it’s hard work, and the hours are unsociable. It’s not a career path; it’s a lifestyle choice, and if that’s what someone wants to do, then you try to encourage them as much as possible. 

What made you want to become a chef? 

Chef Czerwinski: It wasn’t in the plan. I quit law school and moved to Ireland to study sound engineering. I got a job in a local kitchen to help support myself and it was here where I met my mentor who introduced me to life in the kitchen. Instead of mixing tunes, I decided to mix flavours. I went on to work as Head Chef for Gordon Ramsay and Chef De Cuisine at The Upper House.

Where do you like to eat out in Hong Kong?

Chef Zavou:  I love eating out and trying different places, but we don’t like to go too expensive. Hong Kong offers excellent variety. I’m a big fan of Black Sheep Restaurants – if you go to Ho Lee Fook, you’ve got to have the prawn toast and the chicken. And if you go to Chom Chom, the Black Cod (when it’s on the menu) is a must. Man Wah offers excellent dim sum, and Caprice is our go-to place for fine dining. My son also loves Samsen for Thai food. 

What’s your go-to dinner party dish? 

Chef Czerwinski: It’s got to be my Dan Dan noodles. 

Something exciting that you’re working on? 

Chef Yuen: I opened Otera a few months ago, and there’s so much to be excited about. We recently launched our savoury flan cakes – a savoury dessert with soy sauce. People are excited about our experimentation with sweet and savoury. They like sweetness but they don’t want sugar, so it’s about finding that flavour but with less butter and cream and experimenting with alternatives, like honey.

Would you encourage your own kids to follow in your footsteps? 

Chef Zavou: Of course, I would give my support. But I’d ensure they’re going into it for the right reasons. It wouldn’t be my ideal choice and you’ll never earn millions as a chef. I advise becoming a lawyer!

Are the skills needed to become a chef innate or learned?

Chef Yuen: Chefs must be able to visualise a taste without actually tasting it. I don’t think that’s something that can be taught. Once they have that, it’s all about trial and error. When creating a menu or a new dish, you know what will work and what won’t. For example, I know that soy in a dessert will work, so I then go on to experiment with how much to add. 

What needs to happen to make Hong Kong’s dining scene more inclusive? 

Chef Czerwinski: We must try to celebrate and promote diverse culinary traditions in the city. Providing opportunities for aspiring chefs (such as  rén 人 is doing) and encouraging collaborations amongst chefs helps to create a more inclusive environment. Initiatives highlighting diversity’s importance in the food industry also plays a significant role. 

How can we get involved? 

Jo: You can support rén 人 by engaging in several initiatives across Hong Kong. The Mira Hong Kong donates a proportion of sales from their artisanal jams and spreads at café-patisserie COCO to rén 人. There’s also an activation with The Coffee Academics for purchases of their NYC Soft-Baked Cookies. Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong are due to release a set of four hand-embroidered linen napkins as part of their 60th anniversary celebrations, they will be priced at $1,963 with all proceeds going directly to support rén 人 initiatives.  

rén 人 has also recently formed a partnership with local candle brand BeCandle through which 12 Hong Kong culinary experts, including Chef Olivier Elzer of Clarence and Chef Richard Ekkebus of The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong have created a scented candle for the autumn/winter gifting season. Proceeds from the candle sales will support r én’s youth programme under its HUMANITY pillar.

To discover more about the rén 人 community and how you can get involved, follow their Instagram page @renhk__. The website www.ren.community.com will be live from mid-November.