The art of eating sushi by hand

In the heritage FWD HOUSE 1881, formerly the Hong Kong Marine Police Headquarters, Tokyo’s one-Michelin-starred sushi restaurant Udatsu Sushi has made waves since opening its first international outpost in Hong Kong just two months ago. This omakase restaurant introduces a unique blend of artistry and culinary excellence to the city’s vibrant dining scene. We caught up with renowned chef-owner Hisashi Udatsu to learn why, amongst other things, it’s better to eat his sushi by hand, and the intriguing reasons behind pairing it with tequila.

Welcome to Hong Kong! Why did you choose this city for the first international location of Udatsu Sushi?

Thank you! I’ve always admired the high culinary standards of the Hong Kong audience, as well as the deep appreciation for Japanese cuisine, particularly sushi. I’ve long envisioned opening a restaurant here. FWD HOUSE 1881 is a historical venue with a diverse crowd, making it an ideal spot for trendsetting the omakase experience.

Your culinary journey began as a child sneaking into the local sushi restaurant. How has that early passion shaped the experience at Udatsu Sushi?

From a young age, I’ve dreamed of opening my own restaurant, and my passion for sushi defines who I am—both personally and professionally. Every day, I’m meticulous about the ingredients I use, ensuring our customers can truly savour each element. I’m always looking to introduce new components and evolve our dishes, creating an ever-changing experience.

Udatsu Sushi is known for transforming the traditional omakase experience. What do you offer that sets the restaurant apart?

Our chefs’ dedication to understanding the passion of our producers is second to none. We strive to honour each ingredient and enhance its qualities, continually refining our techniques. This commitment to craftsmanship allows us to offer a truly unique dining experience.

Your menu emphasises seasonal ingredients from Toyosu market and local farms in Hong Kong. How do you balance the flavours of imported Japanese fish with locally grown produce?

Local ingredients have their own distinct qualities and flavours that I want to showcase. By using Japanese techniques, we allow diners to experience the best of both worlds—combining the freshness of local produce with the exquisite taste of imported fish.

Is it traditional to eat sushi by hand at places like Udatsu Sushi, where the chef serves nigiri directly with their hands?

Yes, eating sushi by hand is traditional and enhances the experience by allowing diners to appreciate the texture and balance of the rice and fish. Using chopsticks is also acceptable, depending on personal preference.

The introduction of tequila alongside sake as a pairing for sushi is a bold move. What inspired this decision?

Our pairing courses draw inspiration from the surprising similarities between tequila and sake. Both spirits offer a unique harmony in their production and flavour profiles. For example, our signature sea urchin sushi pairs exceptionally well with tequila; its botanical notes beautifully complement the umami of the seaweed and sea urchin. We even lightly fry fresh seaweed to enhance that pairing. Sake, on the other hand, brings out the delicate flavours of sushi, enhancing its subtleties.

How has Udatsu Sushi been received in Hong Kong? What can diners look forward to in the coming months?

We continue on our ongoing mission to deepen our connection with guests and meet their expectations. This challenge is what drives us as we navigate the dynamic restaurant scene here in Hong Kong!

Udatsu Sushi is open for lunch and dinner from Wednesday to Sunday. FWD HOUSE 1881, G/F, Stable Block, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui