Sai Kung secret: Sham Chung

Located along the Three Fathoms Cove trail, is a coastal inlet between Sai Kung West Country Park and Ma On Shan, which was once known as Kei Ling, this explains the Cantonese name for the Three Fathoms Cove, Kei Ling Ha Hoi (“the sea under Kei Ling”). Here you’ll find a restored Hakka village, remote grassland and lush mangroves referred to as Sham Chung.

While the almost abandoned village may be beautiful, it is a far cry from its natural state. First established in 1879, this remote village thrived on the land which they had  converted to paddy fields. At its peak in 1950, the village was home to over 500 residents. After many of the community’s children left to work and study abroad, the village ended up  abandoned. 

Once the villagers left, the forgotten fields transformed into a wetland teeming with wildlife, including rare animals like brown fish owl, and the Hong Kong paradise fish, becoming one of the cities most ecological sites. 

But in 1999, developers earmarked the area for a golf course, draining the wetland and replacing it with grass, and destroying the unique ecosystem in the process. The project was never approved and resulted in the loss of one of the one thriving ecosystems. 

Today hikers and explorers venture over to the Sham Chung, where many of the original structures still stand, including The Epiphany of Our Lord Chapel, one of the historic churches of Sai Kung. In the village’s hayday The Chapel housed Kung Man School, which had about 60 pupils and two full-time teachers. Some villages return to the area on weekends and holidays including Tom Li, who has set up in his old family home serving drinks and noodles to hungry hikers.

How to get there: From Sai Kung Town, take the 99 and 299x KMB bus and alite at Yung Shue O. From this junction it is a 45-minute walk down the single-track road to reach Yung Shue O or take a taxi instead. Once you have reached the village of Yung Shue O, the road stops and the hiking trail begins. Follow the painted banners indicating the way to Sham Chung. It’s a 45-minute stroll along the coastline to Sham Chung Ferry Pier and then inland to the village grasslands.