Ng Tung Chai Waterfalls

Description

Just a stone’s throw away from the high rises of Tai Po, the Ng Tung Chai waterfalls are one of Hong Kong’s best-kept secrets. Climb into a steep-sided ravine covered by dense rainforest and flowing waterfalls. Despite the area’s accessibility, it offers an escape from the crowds at weekends. And, during the week, you’re likely to have this tropical wonderland all to yourself.

Route

Taking the most direct route, you will need to get yourself to Ng Tung Chai Road off Lam Kam Road (a little east of Kadoorie Farm & Botanic Garden). If you are driving, there is a small car park half way up this road—this might get busy at weekends.  

You will see signs for “waterfalls” periodically placed along Ng Tung Chai Road. Continue up for about 700 metres before reaching the trailhead. Once on the trail you will come across a temple, named Man Tak Garden, on your right within a few minutes. I have never seen it open and therefore never been able to explore what is behind the confines of its ornate walls and gate, but it seems like a tranquil place set in a stunning location.

Just one minute after the temple you will come across a small water catchment with a nice waterfall flowing into it.  Compared with what is to come, this pool is tiny and not worth the stop for a dip. Having said that, I did manage to squeeze myself, and 10 Scouts, into this little catchment on one occasion—just for the fun of it!

A few minutes later you will arrive at a fork in the path, an information board and a sign saying “Tai Mo Shan Country Park”.  The right hand fork will take you all the way up to Tai Mo Shan, bypassing all the waterfalls. Ignore this path and take the trail sign-posted “Tai Mo Shan via Waterfalls”.

Here the trail becomes steeper and a touch more challenging. It’s a no-go for toddlers and young children who are partial to a good whinge and whine. For the inexperienced hiker it may seem tough, but it is not impossible and the rewards are worth the effort. Wear proper training shoes and do not be tempted to tackle this trail in Crocs, TEVAs or flip-flops.

You will reach the first waterfall, unsurprisingly named “Bottom Fall”, after around 15 minutes of climbing. Duck off the path to the left (at the signpost) for 20 metres or so to reach the pool and the fall. This fall and pool alone are worth the journey—the spot is so stunning and secluded that you may wish to stay here for the rest of the day and not bother with the rest. However, there is bigger and better to come, so after a dip and a snack here, do consider making the effort to continue up.

“Middle Fall” is close by—less than 10 minutes—and is another beautiful spot. Again it might be tempting to kick back and spend the rest of the day here. The waterfall is mesmerizing.

The path gets steeper and narrower from here on, so if your kids are moaning beyond acceptable levels then stay where you are and enjoy. If, however, the kids are chomping at the bit to continue up, hit the trail again and brace yourselves—the best is yet to come!

Take it slowly; take regular, short rest stops if you need to; and do take care to watch your footing. The irregularly stepped path is steep and narrow in places. Here would be a good place to advise your kids to face forward and walk in single file, whilst hiking on tricky paths.

After about 30 minutes you will reach the “Main Fall” and here is where your reward awaits.  A large pool fed by a single, narrow, 30 metre waterfall—perfect for swimming and fairly shallow so good for the kids too. The pool is also great for dogs. The stones that lie on the bottom of this shallow pool offer a striking mosaic of colours and shapes in the sunshine. Large boulders around the pool allow you to take up residence for a few hours, enjoy a picnic and forget the stresses and strains of your normal life back in the big city.  

Useful info

Distance: 12km round trip
Duration: Four to five hours round trip
How to get there: Catch a taxi or bus 64K from Tai Wo MTR Station (Exit A) to Ng Tung Chai village then follow the road uphill to the trailhead. Pass by Man Tak Monastery and head up the northern slopes of Tai Mo Shan, Hong Kong’s highest peak. Once at the waterfalls it’s only a 45-minute walk from the Bottoms Falls to Lam Kam Road to grab a bus.